bake - January 2020 - 33

JOHN UNREIN

RISING IN THE
NORTHWEST
In the Paciﬁc Northwest, Cairnspring Mill's key partners include Patagonia's venture capital fund Tin Shed
Ventures, the Port of Skagit, Camas Country Mill and
Washington State University's The Bread Lab, as well
as local farmers. A multiple-year project included a
stop in Scandinavia where the partners worked with
a milling company to develop a roller mill/stone mill
hybrid. Cainspring Mills currently has a capacity of 5-6
million pounds of ﬂour per year, focusing on serving
smaller bakeries that use between 500 pounds and
1,000 pounds of European-style bread ﬂours per week.
For example, San Francisco's acclaimed Tartine Bakery
is a key customer.
Kevin Morse, chief executive officer of Cairnspring
Mills, is co-founder of Cairnspring Mills with Tom Hunton,
owner of Camas Country Mill, which operates a stone
mill in Oregon's Willamette Valley and focuses on whole
grain ﬂours. At Cairnspring, the milling process involves
multiple steps: tempering the wheat, a roller break, then
to the stone mill, and ﬁnally a sift at the end prior to
the ﬁnished ﬂour. Cairnspring Mills works with nearly
a dozen wheat farmers in Washington and Oregon,
where they often produce extremely high yields (100
to 150 bushels per acre) of winter wheat. Now, their
goal is to help rebuild the local farm community. "We
pay growers $1.50 to $2 a bushel more than commodity
wheat," Morse says. "The bar is deﬁnitely higher, and
they have to earn it."

Bake Magazine Digital Special Report 1 | Volume 1 | bakemag.com

Prominent Flavor
Jan Schat, a professional bread consultant
who is a Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie
champion, points out quite simply that ﬂavor
is playing a much more prominent role in the
craft bread world of today. There are more
specialty ingredients and local grains for
bakers to work with, and although some can
get expensive, bakers can be excited by the
possibilities. He has baked breads that include
a low percentage (10%) of a single varietal
whole grain ﬂour with wonderful results. He's
done so in classics like French baguettes,
resulting in "phenomenal" ﬂavors. "Small additions of single varietals into liquid levains,
or poolish, bring out interesting ﬂavors. I ﬁnd
that to be exciting," Schat says. "To me, it's
nice if you can transition people into better
ﬂavor and nutrition. It's an exciting world of
ﬂavor that is deﬁnitely worth pursuing."

33

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bake - January 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of bake - January 2020

bake - January 2020
Contents
From the editor - Bread is hip again, a sign of hope.
The future of bread is moving in multiple directions
Examining sourdough and its future potential
Q&A: Jonathan Davis
Why gluten-free is here to stay
Producing whole wheat breads at larger scale
Understanding influences of the milling process
Pogácsa
Sprouted Khorasan bagels
Consumer Insights
bake - January 2020 - Consumer Insights
bake - January 2020 - Consumer Insights
bake - January 2020 - 2
bake - January 2020 - 3
bake - January 2020 - 4
bake - January 2020 - 5
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