bake - October 2019 - 32

sweet goods

The Science of

FRYING
DONUTS
The ﬁrst rule of donut fry shortenings is stick with a hard fat.

plete saturation, according to Qualisoy. The full hydrogenation

"A more solid, harder shortening helps with fat migration and

process strives to convert all unsaturated fatty acids; thus, fully

weeping, which in turn help with better shelf life and stability,"

hydrogenated oils have been approved by the US Food and

says Peter Kolavo, executive chef for South Chicago Packing,

Drug Administration for use in edible products.

a leading shortening manufacturer that features a new line of
bakery shortenings including All Donut.

High oleic soybean shortening produced donuts that are similar
in texture, interior grain, spread, height and size to partially

"If the fat is too liquid and soft, it can blot and get soggy," Ko-

hydrogenated soybean oil in both cake and yeast donut tests,

lavo continues. "If the fat is too hard, it may leave a waxy feel-

according to the functionality study.

ing on the palate, so it is good to go with a happy medium like
lard or tallow. They do not polymerize or form gums as readily

"This is a true drop-in substitute for donut frying," Flider says.

as liquid shortenings and hold up better under continuous high

"Overall, longer fry life is among the many beneﬁts. We are

heat cooking applications."

helping to support American agriculture and the environment."

Roger Daniels, vice president of research, development and

In the cake donut study, high oleic soybean oil shortening pro-

innovation at Stratas Foods, concurs that hard fats, including

duced donuts with star-shaped holes similar to those produced

high oleic soybean shortening, are optimum for frying donuts.

with partially hydrogenated soybean oil. Oil weeping was second
lowest with donuts fried with high oleic soybean shortening.

ring to the surface of the donut," Daniels says. "Also, the

Oil weeping occurs when oil leaches out of the donut providing

longer the donut sits under a heat lamp, the more grease

an oily, possibly soggy, taste and mouthfeel. It can lead to incon-

is going on the donut. A donut is a sponge. But a hard fat

sistent covering of glaze or powdered sugar. Additionally, exces-

solidiﬁes post-fry."

sive weeping results in undesirable greasy and stained packaging.

Qualisoy oils expert Frank Flider, speaking at a special presen-

Shelf life considerations

tation by Qualisoy at the International Baking Industry Exposi-

Kolavo points out that, when it comes to shelf life, bakers

tion (IBIE), said that recent functionality tests revealed that

should recognize that nothing lasts forever. "Shortenings

high oleic soybean shortening, made with a blend of liquid and

should be used and replenished regularly," he says.

fully hydrogenated oils, is the perfect US-grown, high-stability
oil for many baking and frying applications.

"This varies widely depending on what is being fried, how
much absorption or pick-up the products have, and what if any

Fully hydrogenated oils are individual fats and oils, or blends of ﬁltering/maintenance is being done. Without loss of generality,
fats and oils, that are hydrogenated to complete or near com-

32 < OCT 2019 | bakemag.com

more saturated fats like palm, tallow, and lard are more resis-

"If you have a hard fat, that prevents more oil from transfer-

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