bake - July/August 2020 - 32

NYC
responding to crisis in

As America's largest city continues to navigate
COVID-19, its bakeries find ways to survive.
BY KEVIN LAWLESS
Dog walkers corralling their herd. Children racing home

There still had not been any confirmed cases of COVID-19

New York City

from school. Patrons laughing over frothy cappuccinos

in the state and life had yet to begin its shift, but anyone

retailers such

and scones from their sidewalk table outside the local

watching the news and following along on social media

as Dominique

coffee shop. These are the sounds that are supposed

knew that change was coming.

Ansel Bakery are

to ring from the city as leaves begin returning to the

"It was strange to watch it develop on the other side

responding to

tree-lined streets of Manhattan. As winter rolls into

of the world but not know how or when it would hit us,"

spring, New York City begins to come alive again.

says Melissa Elsen, co-founder of The Four & Twenty

crisis with strength.

This year, the first day of spring was met with empti-

Blackbirds Pie Shop in Brooklyn. "But in early March

ness. Schools were closed and "social distancing" had

we started to realize we needed to prepare, and then

become a part of everybody's lexicon. The sounds

everything fell like dominoes."

that we were supposed to hear were absent from

On March 1, the first COVID-19 patient was confirmed

the air. In the year of COVID-19 there was only one

in New York City. By the 20th, over 8,000 cases were

sound that replaced the normal hustle and bustle of

reported in the state, New York City schools had closed

The Big Apple.

and Governor Andrew Cuomo ordered all non-essential

Sirens.

business to shutter until further notice - meaning all

It's hard to believe that just 20 days before spring

restaurants and bakeries were no longer allowed to
accept dine-in customers.

DOMINIQUE ANSEL BAKERY

greeted our great city, life had been relatively normal.

32 < JUL-AUG 2020 | bakemag.com


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