bake - May/June 2020 - 28

ways to represent several beloved desserts that reminded
people of their childhoods. The pop-up was a smash
hit. Despite not opening the shop until 9 a.m., people
showed up to wait in line at 7:30 a.m. to get their hands
on boxes of desserts. "With this (pop-up), we sold out
in two and a half hours," Jacobs says.
The retro menu included a variety of cookie sandwiches, cupcakes and macarons based on popular flavors
such as Oatmeal Cream Pies, Moon Pies, Cheetos, Puppy
Chow, Fruity Pebbles, Sno Balls and the aforementioned
Dunkaroos, among others. She also featured cake cups,
which contain cake scraps, buttercream and toppings in
a cup - essentially a deconstructed slice of cake.
To make the Dunkaroos, Jacobs had to construct the
flavor from memory. She made a sugar cookie dough,
but then added in a lot of spices. She substituted in
brown sugar for white sugar, and threw in some ginger,
cinnamon and nutmeg to create a spice cookie. She then
made a cream cheese dip with sprinkles in it.
She stuck to classic formulas as much as possible,
but did take some creative liberties. "I always like to put
my spin on things. This one was interesting, because I
was kind of mimicking desserts that were already in
existence, whereas the other menus are totally my own
thing," Jacobs says.
For example, she had never really had MoonPies
growing up, but over the summer tried one at a party.
She realized how processed it tasted and wanted to
make a superior version. To create her version of Moon
Pies, she used dark chocolate on the coating. Callebaut
chocolate made for a rich outside, a homemade marshmallow fluff was sandwiched inside and sea salt was
sprinkled on top.
Among her inspirations during this creation process
was a video series from Bon Appétit magazine, titled
"Gourmet Makes," where pastry chef Claire Saffitz
attempts to recreate favorite junk and comfort foods
influence was Stella Parks' BraveTart, the James Beard
Award winner for Best Baking and Desserts Book in
2018, which offers fresh takes on the history of American
desserts such as Hostess Cupcakes and Fudge Stripes.
For Jacobs, a lot of these desserts represented a
different person in her life. Growing up, she and her best
friend used to make puppy chow all the time, which
was a motivation for including that flavor on the menu.
Jacobs views these pop-ups as a marketing strategy
and a way to build customer relationships.

28 < MAY-JUN 2020 | bakemag.com

WANDERING WHISK BAKESHOP

such as Twinkies in the Bon Appétit test kitchen. Another


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