bake - November 2018 - 16

Give him a moment, and Peter Reinhart will tell you

on the ﬁrst day. "My goal is it's all about the crust. An

about the best toasted bread you may ever enjoy.

average topping on a great crust can be memorable.

Perhaps his best-known bread is Struan, which he

Memorable is the key word - that it is so much better

now makes in a variation of the multigrain bread

than expected you can't get it out of your head."

that opens up possibilities for grain variations.

One critical step involves making pizza dough at

Substituting millet, quinoa, amaranth or buckwheat

least 24 hours ahead, so that you are releasing all the

for the corn or oats (or simply adding them to the

ﬂavors through chemistry, he explains.

blend) can be accomplished with a soaked method
without precooking the grains.

The Detroit-style red-stripe pizza is a good start,
to perfect your system. Five hours prior to baking,

"I say this with the conﬁdence of hundreds of

begin panning and dimpling the dough at 20-minute

customer testimonials: This bread and its variations

intervals in a greased pan using olive oil. After an

makes the best toast in the world,'' he says. "Because

hour or two, the dough will relax enough to cover the

it is sweetened with both honey and brown sugar, it

pan after a ﬁnal dimpling. This is when you spread on

caramelizes quickly, both while baking and especially

top and embed into the dough half of your measured

when toasting. The many grains hold onto moisture

cheese cubes. Rather than grate the cheese, Reinhart

so that, while the slices crisp up when toasted, they

says, cut the cheese into cubes so they melt at the

also retain a moist sweetness."

right time.

Reinhart is a Johnson & Wales baking instructor and

Doughs for Roman-style pizzas follow a similar

author of many wonderful books, including the forth-

method, minus the cheese toppings. The master

coming "Perfect Pan Pizza," due out next year. Bread

dough is always made at least one day ahead.

and pizza are his passions, and he shares amazing

Toppings include crushed tomato or marinara pizza

ideas for everything from Detroit-style, Roman-style,

sauce, olive oil, coarse sea salt and fresh oregano.

Sicilian and Grandma-style pizzas, to such breads as

"The wetter dough of Roman-style pizza is the secret

Pain à l'Ancienne, sprouted wheat ﬂour and barley

to why this dough is so good," he adds. "It allows it to

batards and sprouted wheat bialys.

rise with more air pockets. The trick on wet dough is
using a lot of oil."

Reinhart is a multiple James Beard Award winner
for his cookbooks and is the founder and host of the

For Reinhart, "the mission of the baker is to evoke the

popular website PizzaQuest.com, where he continues

full potential of ﬂavor trapped in the grain," he says.

to chronicle his never-ending search for the perfect

"It is my feeling that sprouted grains are going to get

pizza through videos, essays and recipes.

bigger and bigger. Sprouting the grain makes the
grain taste better, in my opinion. We are right at the

"There is a new wave in America where Roman-style

tipping point of sprouted grains becoming a bigger

pizzas are going to be popping up," he tells our class

part of the American diet."

16 < NOV 2018 | bakemag.com

JOHN UNREIN

REINHART

PETER
http://www.PizzaQuest.com http://www.bakemag.com
bake - November 2018

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