bake - September 2018 - 18

the local grain

challenge
Craft bakers are leading a shift
to local wheat. Can they succeed?
BY JOHN UNREIN
Chris Matsch of Ibis

(Editor's note: This is part 1 of a two-part series on the

the farmer) to allow the farmer to pay his or her bills.

emergence of local grains and freshly milled ﬂours.)

I've seen (and bought) grain sold by a local farmer
(within 20 miles) for over $2 a pound. At that rate, a

Bakery is among a
growing number of

Wheat is wheat. Or is it? Following the progres-

350-gram whole grain baguette would ring in at just

independent bread

sion of wine, beer, cheese and other craft indus-

under $8. I spoke to the farmer and $2 per pound

bakers who are

tries, American bakers are busy introducing craft

is what this farmer needed to pay their bills. I'm no

committed to using

breads baked with organic ﬂour from local wheats.

economist, but I'm pretty sure an $8 baguette is

local grains.

Varieties with names like Turkey Red, Red Fife, Rouge

beyond the reach of the average bread eater."

de Bourdeaux, Marquis, Warthog, Elgin, Pristine,
Redeemer, Expresso, Blanca Grande and Patron

Still, he understands and appreciates the passion of

are part of the new language spoken between local

any baker who aspires to bake great bread. Giusto is

farmers and craft bakers seeking to differentiate.

not only a miller. He represented Bread Bakers Guild

Some wheats are heritage, others are modern vari-

Team USA at the Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie

eties - grown locally. Each brings a distinct ﬂavor.

(Bakery World Cup) in 2016 and spends countless
hours holding workshops for bakers of all levels. "I

As one may guess, challenges are popping up in most

believe reviving local grain economies is essential

every direction. Craft bakers can pay $1 to $2 a pound

to creating diversity with what types of wheat are

or more for local heritage grains and, in increasing

available. If small regional farms are not supported,

numbers, some prominent bakers mill grain using

then it will be a matter of time until large growers -

their own stone mill on-site.

mainly farmers farming exclusively for the big mills
- maintain a smaller pool of higher yielding varieties

"Growing heritage grain doesn't always work well for

of wheat that may not perform as well in the bakery.

farmers. This is something that some bakers over-

However, I think the term local needs to be deﬁned."

look," says Nicky Giusto, a fourth-generation miller
and baker with Central Milling, based in Logan, Utah.

The craft bread industry stands at a bit of a cross-

"Some older varieties just do not yield enough per

roads. As bakers await supplies of local grains to

acre (depending on the growing year and skill level of

increase, and prices to come down, the local farmer

18 < SEP 2018 | bakemag.com

http://www.bakemag.com

bake - September 2018

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of bake - September 2018

bake - September 2018
Editor's Note - The Local Grain Challenge
Contents
Management - Why Location Matters
New Product Success Stories - Vibrant Vegetables
Technical Corner - DONUTS: The Importance of Consistemcy
Practical Marketing - Honey in Breakfast Foods
Equipment Innovations - RETARDER/proofers
The local grain challenge
First-class education
Chocolate & Decorating - Inspiring Holiday Ideas
Cakes - THE SOFTER SIDE OF FALL HOLIDAYS
Sweet Goods - Seasonal sweets
Breads - Fresh Milled in NEW ORLEANS
Pastries - ASIA + SAN FRANCISCO
Foodservice - STARBUCKS Unveils Princi
Product Showcase
Classifieds
Formula of the Month - Peach cobbler/bread pudding
BakeMark's Panaderia - September 2018
CARTA DE INTRODUCCIÓN - Señales Claras de Optimismo
INTRODUCTORY LETTER - Clear Signs of Optimism
PAN Y HORNEO - DONAS, CHURROS Y ANTOJOS DULCES
PASTELES Y DECORACIONES - PASTELES DE POSTRE Y BODA
Productos Innovadores Empujar La Expansión
PERFILES - Maravilla’s Bakery & Coffee
Pepe’s Bakery
Miranda’s Bakery
Su Casa Super Mercado
La Mexicana Super Market
Los Portales Mexican Store
RECETAS DESTACADAS
PRODUCTOS DESTACADOS
BREAD AND BAKING - DONUTS, CHURROS & SWEET SNACKS
CAKES AND DECORATING - DESSERT & WEDDING CAKES
Innovative Products Drive Expansion
PROFILES - Maravilla’s Bakery & Coffee
Pepe’s Bakery
Miranda’s Bakery
Su Casa Super Mercado
La Mexicana Super Market
Los Portales Mexican Store
FEATURED RECIPES
FEATURED PRODUCTS
bake - September 2018 - bake - September 2018
bake - September 2018 - bake - September 2018
bake - September 2018 - 2
bake - September 2018 - Editor's Note - The Local Grain Challenge
bake - September 2018 - 4
bake - September 2018 - 5
bake - September 2018 - Contents
bake - September 2018 - 7
bake - September 2018 - Management - Why Location Matters
bake - September 2018 - 9
bake - September 2018 - New Product Success Stories - Vibrant Vegetables
bake - September 2018 - 11
bake - September 2018 - Technical Corner - DONUTS: The Importance of Consistemcy
bake - September 2018 - 13
bake - September 2018 - Practical Marketing - Honey in Breakfast Foods
bake - September 2018 - 15
bake - September 2018 - Equipment Innovations - RETARDER/proofers
bake - September 2018 - The local grain challenge
bake - September 2018 - 18
bake - September 2018 - 19
bake - September 2018 - 20
bake - September 2018 - 21
bake - September 2018 - 22
bake - September 2018 - 23
bake - September 2018 - 24
bake - September 2018 - 25
bake - September 2018 - 26
bake - September 2018 - 27
bake - September 2018 - 28
bake - September 2018 - 29
bake - September 2018 - First-class education
bake - September 2018 - 31
bake - September 2018 - 32
bake - September 2018 - 33
bake - September 2018 - 34
bake - September 2018 - 35
bake - September 2018 - Chocolate & Decorating - Inspiring Holiday Ideas
bake - September 2018 - 37
bake - September 2018 - Cakes - THE SOFTER SIDE OF FALL HOLIDAYS
bake - September 2018 - 39
bake - September 2018 - 40
bake - September 2018 - 41
bake - September 2018 - 42
bake - September 2018 - 43
bake - September 2018 - Sweet Goods - Seasonal sweets
bake - September 2018 - 45
bake - September 2018 - 46
bake - September 2018 - 47
bake - September 2018 - Breads - Fresh Milled in NEW ORLEANS
bake - September 2018 - 49
bake - September 2018 - Pastries - ASIA + SAN FRANCISCO
bake - September 2018 - 51
bake - September 2018 - Foodservice - STARBUCKS Unveils Princi
bake - September 2018 - Product Showcase
bake - September 2018 - 54
bake - September 2018 - 55
bake - September 2018 - Classifieds
bake - September 2018 - 57
bake - September 2018 - Formula of the Month - Peach cobbler/bread pudding
bake - September 2018 - 59
bake - September 2018 - 60
bake - September 2018 - Blank - 1
bake - September 2018 - Blank - 2
bake - September 2018 - BakeMark's Panaderia - September 2018
bake - September 2018 - Pan - 2
bake - September 2018 - CARTA DE INTRODUCCIÓN - Señales Claras de Optimismo
bake - September 2018 - INTRODUCTORY LETTER - Clear Signs of Optimism
bake - September 2018 - Pan - 5
bake - September 2018 - PAN Y HORNEO - DONAS, CHURROS Y ANTOJOS DULCES
bake - September 2018 - Pan - 7
bake - September 2018 - Pan - 8
bake - September 2018 - Pan - 9
bake - September 2018 - PASTELES Y DECORACIONES - PASTELES DE POSTRE Y BODA
bake - September 2018 - Pan - 11
bake - September 2018 - Pan - 12
bake - September 2018 - Pan - 13
bake - September 2018 - Productos Innovadores Empujar La Expansión
bake - September 2018 - Pan - 15
bake - September 2018 - Pan - 16
bake - September 2018 - Pan - 17
bake - September 2018 - PERFILES - Maravilla’s Bakery & Coffee
bake - September 2018 - Pan - 19
bake - September 2018 - Pepe’s Bakery
bake - September 2018 - Pan - 21
bake - September 2018 - Miranda’s Bakery
bake - September 2018 - Pan - 23
bake - September 2018 - Su Casa Super Mercado
bake - September 2018 - Pan - 25
bake - September 2018 - La Mexicana Super Market
bake - September 2018 - Pan - 27
bake - September 2018 - Los Portales Mexican Store
bake - September 2018 - Pan - 29
bake - September 2018 - RECETAS DESTACADAS
bake - September 2018 - PRODUCTOS DESTACADOS
bake - September 2018 - BREAD AND BAKING - DONUTS, CHURROS & SWEET SNACKS
bake - September 2018 - Pan - 33
bake - September 2018 - CAKES AND DECORATING - DESSERT & WEDDING CAKES
bake - September 2018 - Pan - 35
bake - September 2018 - Innovative Products Drive Expansion
bake - September 2018 - Pan - 37
bake - September 2018 - PROFILES - Maravilla’s Bakery & Coffee
bake - September 2018 - Pan - 39
bake - September 2018 - Pepe’s Bakery
bake - September 2018 - Pan - 41
bake - September 2018 - Miranda’s Bakery
bake - September 2018 - Pan - 43
bake - September 2018 - Su Casa Super Mercado
bake - September 2018 - Pan - 45
bake - September 2018 - La Mexicana Super Market
bake - September 2018 - Pan - 47
bake - September 2018 - Los Portales Mexican Store
bake - September 2018 - Pan - 49
bake - September 2018 - FEATURED RECIPES
bake - September 2018 - FEATURED PRODUCTS
bake - September 2018 - Pan - 52
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