bake - July 2018 - 22
baking business when he opened the ﬁrst Busken
Other bakeries have followed different paths as
store in the Hyde Park neighborhood. His father, Clem,
they moved from one generation to the next. In
had run a bakery in Oklahoma City after working as a
Cincinnati, Servatii Pastry Shop & Deli has 12 stores
route salesmen for Fleischmann Yeast Co. In Busken's
throughout the tri-state region and numerous
early years, Joe would bake all night and sell all day,
wholesale customers. The Gottenbusch family has
counting every penny along the way.
been preparing fresh baked goods since the 1800s.
Great grandfather George started out in Muenster,
By the 1950s, business was expanding and more loca-
Germany, driving a horse-drawn wagon door to
tions were added. Joe Busken Jr. joined the family
door selling his fresh baked goods. His son, George,
business in 1952 at a time when there were about 50
attended Germany's most recognizable baking school
employees. An engineer by trade, he designed an
and received his "Konditor Meister" status as Master
efficient production workﬂow inside their ﬁrst big
Pastry Chef. By the early '50s, George opened Café
bakery: "Commodities would come in through the
Servatii, next to St. Servatii Church - named after
back docks to a storage area, and the mixing and
an Italian saint - on Servatii Platz, in the heart of
processing would occur nearby," according to Busken
Muenster, Germany. His son Wilhelm followed in his
history. "The heavy mixing zone would give way to
footsteps. He earned his Master Status, traveled the
six ovens: from the ovens, baked goods would move
world, working in Australia, Poland and on an interna-
into the decorating zone or into walk-in freezers,
tional freighter before settling in Cincinnati.
which could also hold unbaked goods. From there,
the goods would head to boxing zones and deco-
Now, the fourth generation has continued the family
rating areas back near the loading docks before being
tradition. Wilhelm's sons, Gary and Greg, both
shipped to grocery retailing partners or one of the
apprenticed in Germany. Gary continued his training
satellite Busken stores."
and earned his Master Baker Certiﬁcation in 2001. He
is the third Gottenbusch to reach this level.
Innovation would come again in the 1970s with Joe's
son, Page, at the helm. Supermarkets were opening
Poland was the home country of the Jucker family,
bakeries, and competition was getting ﬁerce. The
which now operates Three Brothers Bakery in Houston.
industry was shifting from production driven to
The Jucker family began baking in Chrzanow, Poland,
marketing driven, and Page Busken, armed with a
in a building in which Napoleon had spent a night.
business degree from college and a wealth of bakery
For ﬁve generations and almost 200 years, the Jucker
knowledge from the family business, was up to the
family has been baking traditional breads. The Jucker
challenge. "In the 1970s, we introduced the bakery
family estimates the ﬁrst bakery in Poland opened
cafe, with breakfast and lunch, all before Panera was
between 1825 and 1841. The last known name for the
around," Page recalls. "That was really successful."
bakery in Poland was Morris Jucker's Bakery. When
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