bake - June 2018 - 41

- the way everything is so official, so honored, and so much
ceremony. It's the backbone of everything I've done."
Still, Malone has never been one to sit still. She's visited more
than a dozen countries. Hong Kong remains a favorite destination. "It's so unique. The old and new contradictions."
In 2011 Malone took the position of chef at Sea Change. There,
she gained national attention and earned a place as a semifinalist for the James Beard Award Foundation's "Rising Star
Chef" for 2013 and "Best Chef Midwest" for 2014. In 2013,
Malone was named one of Food & Wine's "Best New Chefs."    
"I love the aesthetics of French pastries," Malone says of her
inspiration behind creating a savory version of Paris-Brest. "To



turn these into savory and something so structured, it's
so fun!"
She adds that they offer a simple dessert menu; Bourbon
Baba with Tonka Bean and Chantilly is one example, while
vanilla ice cream topped with Armagnac-soaked prunes and
lemon ice is another. They once put donuts filled with chicken
liver mousse on the brunch menu, but Malone cautions that
they never want to go too far.
"Just because you can be creative doesn't always make sense
for the diners here," she says. "We opened 11 months ago very
cautiously. We wanted to make sure the neighborhood felt
that this was still their restaurant. We're still here for a roast
chicken dinner and a glass of wine."


In cheeky deference to its roots, the south Minneapolis bistro
houses hand-painted antique French wallpaper, a tropical
mural through the eyes of early explorers, and a smattering of
mismatched French and American ceramics.
The showpiece bakery window, filled with lush foliage, peeks
at a decades-old Baker Boy bread oven and a 1939 Hobart
stand mixer, recalling its original heyday as a bakery in the
1950s. Mining its rich history for buried treasure, a 1923
Parisian zinc bar gleams amid weathered white oak floors and
curvy art deco-shaped booths.
"We've got a lot of room to grow here," Malone says with a
humble smile. "Business is growing. We just want to make it
the best restaurant we can."

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