bake - June 2018 - 40
Dish of the Year
It's not every day that one of your creations earns distinction as "dish of the year" by Food & Wine magazine in its
May 2018 issue. For chef Jamie Malone of Grand Cafe in
Minneapolis, the honor is quite gratifying, and yet hopefully
only the launching pad for continued success as an independent restaurant owner.
This 35-year-old chef is a self-proclaimed lover of traditional
French food who has crafted one of the most inventive
dishes of recent memory - a savory version of the classic
Paris-Brest pastry. Food & Wine describes it this way: "In her
brilliant interpretation of a Paris-Brest, Grand Cafe chef Jamie
Malone takes the dessert on a savory trip. She fries rounds
of choux pastry to churro-like crispness, sandwiches them
around a delicate chicken liver mousse, drizzles the whole
thing with a gold-ﬂecked burnt honey glaze, then showers it
under a ﬂourish of ﬂaky sea salt. The result is decadent, beautiful, and outrageously delicious."
Bake caught up with Malone at her bistro, which opened in
2017, to sample the savory Paris-Brest (which exceeded every
expectation) and to ask this talented chef about her inspirations, her past, and what the future holds.
"The day after I graduated high school, I bought a plane ticket
to Hong Kong," she recalls. "I was a bit of a book nerd in
high school. I knew I wanted to be in the food world, maybe
writing cookbooks. Then I worked in restaurants, saved
money. I've done every job in a restaurant there is to do."
Malone has always enjoyed a life that revolved around food.
She grew up cooking and baking breads with her dad in St.
Paul, Minnesota. Before receiving her culinary degree from Le
Cordon Bleu, Malone traveled and studied extensively in Hong
Kong, Singapore, Vietnam and Europe, immersing herself in
each region's cuisine.
She started working in restaurants at age 16 but began
her cooking career in hospitality in 2006 working for chef
Tim McKee at the highly lauded restaurant La Belle Vie in
She moved on to be a part of the opening team of several
Minneapolis restaurants early in her career, including
Chambers Kitchen, Porter and Frye, and Sea Change. "I'm a
lover of rules. I've always loved old-fashioned French food
40 < JUN 2018 | bakemag.com