bake - April 2018 - 24

grow the local food network. In 2015 he was awarded
a USDA Local Food Promotion Grant that significantly

he says. "I'm a bread specialist. Look at the certain

"Look at the certain
products you do very
well and scale down
your menu. Make sure
you have a laser
focus on quality."

products you do very well and scale down your menu.

Don Guerra, owner and baker for Barrio Bread

helped him to increase collaboration with others and
expand production with a new bakery. He has taught
a variety of baking classes and presented at conferences and workshops, highlighting his business model
and work with heritage grains. Guerra has consulted
in Mexico, Taiwan and throughout the United States.
"There is a huge market for something that is well
made in terms of local breads with few ingredients,"

Make sure you have a laser focus on quality."
With quality in mind, acclaimed French bakers Hubert
Chiron and Patrice Tireau addressed the fascinating

bread technology, open grain and holes were a night-

question of whether "wild crumb" is automatically a

mare, he said.

guarantee of bread quality, speaking in one educational session at WheatStalk.

On the other hand, the golden rules to get an irregular crumb include the following processes: moderate

Chiron talked about the history of bread, noting that

gluten development, low energy mixing and folds,

the baguette first arrived in France in the 1920s. US

long first proof, scaling with minimum pressure, no

mass-produced pan bread and craft European breads

pan, short final proof, deck oven with strong bottom

from mechanized short processes have a fine, soft,

heat, and high temperatue to maximize steam pres-

white crumb in common, he said, while traditional

sure and coalescence. There are some disadvantages

French bread was highly recognizable for its open

with very soft doughs, Chiron said, including sticki-

wild crumb.

ness, touchy during transfer and less crustiness.

Today, Chiron said there are four types of crumb

Their conclusion is that wild crumb is not an auto-

structure: brake firm bread, traditional French

matic guarantee of quality and that pan bread or

baguette, overhydrated straight bread and sandwich

sandwich bread could be premium quality and fit

bread. Pan bread, popular in the United States and

many uses. "There is no automatic link between wild

the United Kingdom, provided an assurance of final

crumb and taste," Chiron said. "Wild crumb could

shape and gave a more regular crumb. With pan

mean oversimplified processing."

24 < APR 2018 |

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