bake - April 2018 - 22

WheatStalk instructor Jane Cho, pastry chef at

"If a customer is going to
pay $2 for a macaron, it has
to have that wow factor."
Pierre Zimmermann of La Fournette Bakery and Café in Chicago

Macrina Bakery, demonstrated creative pies with
coconut pie crust and other flavorful combinations.
Jan Schat provided tips and techniques for making
breads with a variety of local wheats and whole
grains, offering comparisons on final results. One
challenge addressed in the class was that local wheat
flours can be more expensive, causing the final
product to run higher in price than some customers
may be willing to pay. Schat offered a suggestion:
"I can use 10% of the expensive wheat and I still get
incredible flavor."
WheatStalk instructor Andrew Heyn, who owns
Elmore Mountain Bread and New American Stone
Mills in Elmore, Vermont, instructed participants on
the art of stone milling flour, including a demonstration of how to dress the stones.
Three years ago, Heyn took the unusual path from
baker to miller when he built his first granite stone
mill, constructed with granite (the oldest rock on
Earth) straight out of the stone quarries in nearby
Barre, Vermont. His bakery is in Elmore, and now he
has two jobs. He and his wife, Blair Marvin, bake 600
loaves of bread every day for wholesale accounts
(mostly markets and co-ops) within a 50-mile radius.
On the side, Heyn constructs 26-, 40- and 48-inch
stone mills and installs these in retail and wholesale
bakeries across the country. This new venture is
called New American Stone Mills.  
With Heyn's new job come new tools: a diamondblade angle grinder for cutting grooves to each
client's specifications and a pneumatic air hammer
"to break through the smooth surface of the stone to
make it like sandpaper. The roughness is what does
the grinding."
In addition to the innovations involved in stone
milling, Andrew and Blair are innovating by using
local grains. Heyn says examples include Vermont
Redeemer wheat grown by Rogers Farmstead in
neighboring Berlin, Vermont. Elmore Mountain Bread
features a bread called Vermont Redeemer, for which
they include the name of the local farm on the label.

22 < APR 2018 |

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of bake - April 2018