bake - February 2018 - 27


Elmore Mountain Bread breaks the mold with a new
model of efficiency for local milling and baking.
Baker-miller Andrew Heyn eases his right hand into

Now he has two jobs. He and Blair bake 600 loaves

a scoop full of freshly milled flour at his artisan

of bread every day for wholesale accounts (mostly

bakery in central Vermont, where he and his wife,

markets and co-ops) within a 50-mile radius. On

Blair Marvin, bake some of the most flavorful breads

the side, Heyn constructs 26-, 40- and 48-inch

in the world. He gently rubs his fingers together

stone mills and installs these in retail and whole-

and quietly explains the difference between his

sale bakeries across the country. He's been to

stone-ground flour and conventional white flours.

Minneapolis, Philadelphia and Rogers, Arkansas,
where he'd just returned from when I visited his

"This flour has a fattier feel because the germ is in

place in mid-December.

there," he says. "It smells like fresh grain."
"I built 17 stone mills this year," Heyn says. "This
Three years ago, Heyn took the unusual path from

business is growing really fast, and I think there's a

baker to miller when he built his first granite stone

lot of potential. I really think there are enough areas

mill, constructed with granite (the oldest rock on

of the market that are looking for this. In January,

Earth) straight out of the stone quarries in nearby

I'm putting in a stone mill for a pasta company."

Barre, Vermont. His bakery is in Elmore, billed as
And to think just 14 years ago the couple began

hills of forests, agricultural land and 219-acre lake.

their lives as bakers after buying their small bakery


the "beauty spot of Vermont," surrounded by rolling | FEB 2018 > 27

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