bake - February 2018 - 12

technical corner

Endless Varieties of BREADS
Artisan baker Randy George likes to point out that when his
Danish friends are in town, he always makes sure to bake plenty
of rye bread. "They will eat a loaf of rye bread before a half day
is gone," he says, explaining the influence of culture on bread
consumption.
"In general, the American market is still waking up to whole
rye," says George, owner of Red Hen Baking Co. in Middlesex,
Vermont. "I think rye is an area that can be explored more by
creating interesting flavors with whole rye."
Founded in 1999, Red Hen Baking is opening doors for all types
of flavorful artisan breads, including ryes, throughout the state
of Vermont. On average, Red Hen bakes 2,200 loaves of bread
per day and makes 65 daily deliveries to wholesale accounts
such as local grocery stores and restaurants. Wholesale accounts for roughly 70 percent of total business.
Local grains are a priority. The bakery estimates 430,000 pounds
of local wheat go into the making of their breads every year.
"For me, first and foremost, it's the gratification that we make a
difference in farmers' lives," he says. "Of course, it has to taste
great. If local food is not excellent, we are really hindering the
local food movement. Where it sometimes gets difficult is finding something local that is distinguishable."

"We joke sometimes that we're
yeast farmers because we have
to feed our starter twice a day."
Randy George, owner of Red Hen Baking Co.

George, who owns the bakery with his wife Eliza Cain, says they
keep a half dozen starters going, including two whites and one

brown flax seeds, heirloom cornmeal, whole rye chops, whole

rye. "It's all about the process, and how I manage my starter.

sesame seeds, and golden flax seeds.

The variables I can control, I do control, and temperature is a
big one. We come up with many flavors, which is the beauty of

"We're coming up with endless varieties, and we're doing

naturally leavened bread. The sky's the limit of possibilities."

it through the process," George says. "We joke sometimes
that we're yeast farmers because we have to feed our starter

Red Hen makes two varieties of 100% whole rye, including the

twice a day. How we manage that living thing, how we feed it,

unique Sprouternickel - made with certified organic whole

changes its flavors entirely."

rye flour, sprouted organic spelt and rye berries, and organic
George says that the local grain movement continues to gain
popularity, similar to the soaring interest among consumers in
Other flavorful breads are the Crossett Hill batard, made en-

local breweries and local cheesemakers. "And we should con-

tirely with local wheat and rye, and their signature Mad River

sider ourselves fortunate that we don't have to spend the kind of

Grain, "a veritable orchestra of grains and seeds" featuring

money on expensive equipment that a brewer or cheesemaker

wheat flour, sunflower seeds, steel-cut oats, flax seed meal,

does," he adds. "We can fairly easily manage the variables."

12 < FEB 2018 | bakemag.com

JOHN UNREIN

sunflower seeds.


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Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of bake - February 2018

http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2019_05_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2019_04_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2018_07_02
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2019_03_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2019_02_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2019_01_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2018_12_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2018_11_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2018_10_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2018_09_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2018_08_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2018_07_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2018_06_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2018_05_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2018_04_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2018_03_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2018_02_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2018_01_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2017_12_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2017_11_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2017_10_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2017_09_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2017_08_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2017_07_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2017_06_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2017_05_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2017_04_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2017_03_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2017_02_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2017_01_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2016_12_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2016_11_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2016_10_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2016_09_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2016_08_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2016_07_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2016_06_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2016_05_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2016_04_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2016_03_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2016_02_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2016_01_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2015_12_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2015_10_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2015_09_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2015_08_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2015_07_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2015_06_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2015_05_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2015_04_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2015_03_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2015_02_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2015_01_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2014_12_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2014_10_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2014_09_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2014_08_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2014_07_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2014_06_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2014_05_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2014_04_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2014_03_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2014_02_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2014_01_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2013_11_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2013_11_02
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2013_10_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2013_09_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2013_08_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2013_07_01
http://digital.bakemag.com/sosland/bake/2013_06_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2013_05_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2013_04_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2013_03_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2013_02_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2013_01_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2012_11_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2012_10_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2012_09_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2012_08_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2012_07_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2012_06_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2012_05_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2012_04_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2012_03_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2012_02_01
http://www.nxtbook.com/sosland/bake/2012_01_01
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