bake - May 2017 - 40

breads

Chasing Flavor
For decades, Seattle has enjoyed the status of being home to
some of America's greatest bakeries. Names like Grand Central
Bakery and Macrina Bakery & Café come to mind as leaders
among the nation's artisan bread community.
Columbia City Bakery owner Evan Andres, a three-time semiﬁnalist for James Beard's coveted Outstanding Baker award,
knows the Seattle scene well after baking bread here for the
past 20 years. He baked for Macrina and Tall Grass Bakery prior
to opening Columbia City in October 2005.
His shop may be small, but it continues to produce some of
the best bread in the country. Bon Appetit magazine heralded
Columbia City's baguettes for being among the top 10 best in
America, and locals voted their baguettes as best in Seattle in
the city's ﬁrst-ever French Fest in 2013.
"We really try to push that line everyday with what the ﬂour
can handle," Andres says. "We try to take it to the edge. We
want it to be the best experience for the person who came into
buy our bread that day."
His ingredients are simple: ﬂour, water, salt and starter. They
start baking at 4 a.m. every morning, seven days a week. Bread
is delivered daily to restaurants downtown and in the Ballard
neighborhood of northwest Seattle. Wholesale accounts represent roughly 90 percent of total sales.
"Walk-in bread sales have never caught on like I thought it
would," says Andres, who grew up in Berkeley, California, where
he learned an early appreciation for great bread. "Overcoming
convenience is pretty hard, and people are only going to pay
so much for a loaf of bread."
A baguette at Columbia City sells for $5.50. They also produce
a sourdough baguette and seeded ﬁcelle (similar to a baguette
but thinner).
Andres particularly loves the pain de campagne, a mild sourdough made with unbleached wheat ﬂour, whole wheat ﬂour,
Above: Evan Andres of Columbia City Bakery advocates the importance of
attention to detail in the production of artisan breads.

40 < MAY 2017 | bakemag.com

http://www.bakemag.com

bake - May 2017

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of bake - May 2017

bake - May 2017
Editor's note - THE FOODSERVICE ISSUE: lessons of inspiration
Contents
News bites - Flour Bakery Opens Seventh Location
Charm City Cakes Expands
Chipotle Adds Dessert to Menu
Cleaner Labels
Cake Boss Sets Up in Mall of America
Du’s Donuts Makes Successful Debut
Nielsen-Massey Achieves Award
Management - A Profitable Tool for Ordering
New product success stories - Earth Day Cupcakes
Technical corner - Chocolate, Cookies & Pie
Practical marketing - Donut Shop “Takeover”
Food safety - Lessons from Chipotle
Equipment innovations - Multi-Use Convenience
Global inspirations
CAKENOMICS - How to make money in cakes
NAVIGATING THE COMPLEX ORDERING PROCESS
EXECUTING SIMPLE CAKE DESIGNS
ADDING LATIN FLAVORS
Embracing local
Chocolate & decorating - Seasonal Chocolate
Cakes - Summertime Sweets
Breads - Chasing Flavor
Sweet goods - Rolled Ice Cream
NYC Breeds Creative Sandwiches
Beverages - Smoothies
Product showcase
Classifieds
Ad Index
bake - May 2017 - Editor's note - THE FOODSERVICE ISSUE: lessons of inspiration
bake - May 2017 - 2
bake - May 2017 - 3
bake - May 2017 - 4
bake - May 2017 - Contents
bake - May 2017 - Nielsen-Massey Achieves Award
bake - May 2017 - 7
bake - May 2017 - Management - A Profitable Tool for Ordering
bake - May 2017 - 9
bake - May 2017 - New product success stories - Earth Day Cupcakes
bake - May 2017 - 11
bake - May 2017 - Technical corner - Chocolate, Cookies & Pie
bake - May 2017 - 13
bake - May 2017 - Practical marketing - Donut Shop “Takeover”
bake - May 2017 - 15
bake - May 2017 - Food safety - Lessons from Chipotle
bake - May 2017 - 17
bake - May 2017 - Equipment innovations - Multi-Use Convenience
bake - May 2017 - 19
bake - May 2017 - Global inspirations
bake - May 2017 - 21
bake - May 2017 - 22
bake - May 2017 - 23
bake - May 2017 - 24
bake - May 2017 - 25
bake - May 2017 - 26
bake - May 2017 - CAKENOMICS - How to make money in cakes
bake - May 2017 - cake2
bake - May 2017 - cake3
bake - May 2017 - cake4
bake - May 2017 - cake5
bake - May 2017 - NAVIGATING THE COMPLEX ORDERING PROCESS
bake - May 2017 - cake7
bake - May 2017 - cake8
bake - May 2017 - cake9
bake - May 2017 - EXECUTING SIMPLE CAKE DESIGNS
bake - May 2017 - cake11
bake - May 2017 - cake12
bake - May 2017 - cake13
bake - May 2017 - ADDING LATIN FLAVORS
bake - May 2017 - cake15
bake - May 2017 - cake16
bake - May 2017 - 27
bake - May 2017 - 28
bake - May 2017 - 29
bake - May 2017 - Embracing local
bake - May 2017 - 31
bake - May 2017 - 32
bake - May 2017 - 33
bake - May 2017 - Chocolate & decorating - Seasonal Chocolate
bake - May 2017 - 35
bake - May 2017 - Cakes - Summertime Sweets
bake - May 2017 - 37
bake - May 2017 - 38
bake - May 2017 - 39
bake - May 2017 - Breads - Chasing Flavor
bake - May 2017 - 41
bake - May 2017 - Sweet goods - Rolled Ice Cream
bake - May 2017 - NYC Breeds Creative Sandwiches
bake - May 2017 - Beverages - Smoothies
bake - May 2017 - Product showcase
bake - May 2017 - 46
bake - May 2017 - Classifieds
bake - May 2017 - 48
bake - May 2017 - Ad Index
bake - May 2017 - 50
bake - May 2017 - 51
bake - May 2017 - 52
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