bake - Febuary 2016 - 52

Cookies Go Global
As more consumers embrace world cuisines, the all-American

jores to stores, giving samples, being persistent and respectful at

cookie is taking on decidedly global ﬂavors. Demand continues

the same time," Ozzuna says.

to grow for such cookies as sablés from France, Pfeffernuse
cookies from Germany, matcha butter cookies from Japan,

This persistence has paid off. Wooden Table currently produces

pignolis from Italy, polvorones from Mexico, and alfajores from

over 12,000 cookies per week, according to the company, selling

Argentina.

in multiple supermarkets and coffee shops. Dedicated to organic
and non-GMO ingredients, Wooden Table uses local suppliers

As one example, Wooden Table Baking Co. recently renovated a

like Guittard Chocolate, Challenge Butter and Guisto Flour.

5,000-square-foot commercial kitchen, distribution center and
office headquarters in Oakland, doubling the size of its business.

Blending Cultures

The expansion will enable Wooden Table to satisfy rising demand

For more than 60 years, Campbell's Bakery established itself as

for its popular alfajores.

the community bakery of Brentwood, New York, a town that is
known as "the jewel of Long Island." While the Hispanic com-

The company reports that sales have increased six-fold since

munity has grown rapidly here over the years, with Hispanics

2011. "This is an exciting and hectic time for us," says founder and

now accounting for 65 percent of the population of Brentwood,

head baker Andreas Ozzuna. "We're thrilled to be able to invest

Campbell's has adjusted its product line accordingly to meet the

locally, expand our production capabilities, and have more room

needs of the local neighborhood.

for creativity in the kitchen."
There are other Hispanic bakeries in town, but what distinguishes
Alfajores are traditional cookies from Argentina, as well as other

Campbell's from others is its long-standing tradition in the area

South American countries. They are ﬁlled with dulce de leche

and its unique product line, which features a mix of Hispanic and

(caramelized milk) that is sandwiched between two shortbread

Italian breads, pastries and sweet goods. Campbell's started as

cookies.

an Italian bakery many years ago. Now it continues to sell Italian
hard rolls, bagels, rye bread, strawberry shortcake, black forest

On a related note, caramel is now the fastest-growing ﬂavor of

cake, pignoli cookies, cannoli and Napoleons.

bakery desserts sold at the nation's top 500 chains, according
to Technomic research, highlighting the increased consumer

Greg Napolitano, who runs day-to-day operations at Camp-

demand for distinctive ﬂavor. Caramel is extremely popular as a

bell's, says that it is not uncommon for Hispanic customers in

ﬂavor choice among America's fast-growing Hispanic population.

the neighborhood to buy Italian pastries to go along with their
tres leches cakes, conchas and polvorones. The same is true for

Encouraged by cookie fans nearly a decade ago, Ozzuna started

non-Hispanic customers who come in to buy Italian cookies and

selling alfajores to local coffee shops. "I went to each coffee shop

walk out the door with a variety of Italian and Hispanic sweets to

and left samples. I grew the business mostly by offering our alfa-

enjoy. "Our bakery is a hidden treasure in Brentwood," he says.

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